A polyester material is utilized because it will extend with the coverings. (Fiberglas material is not advised.) Fabric is typically cut to extend three inches beyond the fixed location in all instructions. The finishing is used to the roofing system surface area and the material is instantly pressed into the wet surface area.

How Long Do Elastomeric Roof Coatings Last?

If your roofing has stucco parapets, analyze them for cracks along the sides and top. These locations typically permit water to go into the wall and can trigger blisters and wrinkles in the roof surface. Repair with Elastek 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, analyze the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roof membrane.

Acrylic Roof Mastic

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Apply finishing when the roofing is dry and the sealant has set. You will be using a 9-inch sturdy frame, -inch paint roller for spreading out finishing on roof or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Use a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Draw up your roof and make each pail fill that location.

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An affordable 3-inch or 4-inch brush should be used to reach areas not possible with a roller. Utilize a stiff paintbrush for applying 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. Topcoat should always be applied in a very thick coat, to attain a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finishing density of 10 mils.

Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the item for a maximum thickness. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or soak roofing and spread. Provide scupper and ponding locations numerous additional coats for included security. Enable each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather condition, one coat a day is the maximum; two may be possible in the summertime.

ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry finish. If two total topcoats are not used, always use 2 thick coats to problem areas such as scuppers, drain areas, ponding locations, joints, and repaired areas. Avoid using Elastek Solar Magic or The Guard on ponding roofing systems. Tidy skin and tools immediately with water.

These are the wires connecting the roof venting fan. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roofing system vent gotten rid of and tidied up. After clipping the wire and removing the vent, I cleaned up any remaining goop and got my very first good take a look at the roof frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.

Some RV roofing systems are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no idea what was in my camper up until this point. Not too happy about the quantity of rust on it, however hopefully it is still structurally sound! I scraped off some rust and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Maybe I must have put a tarpaulin down initially. My final objective of the day was to get the fridge vent cover off. I observed Recreational Vehicle sealant blobs at 4 points on the cover so presumed there need to be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

Exposing the screws in the fridge vent cap. Peeling off old Recreational Vehicle roof finishing on top of refrigerator vent cap I also discovered that there was a coat of Recreational Vehicle roofing system finish over the vent cap. These finishes are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this coating just blobbed in on top of whatever.

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Taking off the cover of the fridge roof vent. As soon as the cap is off it's more of the very same. Cutting away more rubber and scraping off RV roofing system sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable due to the fact that this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.

Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to eliminate. Prying off the refrigerator roofing vent after all screws are gotten rid of. (and the tools used.) Almost every screw remained in good adequate condition to remove with a socket driver, but a couple were too rusty and needed to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.

I removed the staying rubber roof from under the flange and after that removed the old putty underneath. I'll clean it much better if and when I decide to recycle it. Looks like it's in decent shape so I probably will. Scraping off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roof vent.

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I scraped the framing inside the opening and found that the framing around the fridge vent is made from wood (unlike the metal frame around the roof vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I would not drop any scrap into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.

How To Apply Elastomeric Roof Coating

That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I also observed this awesome slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you have actually never seen a slime mold, examine out some time lapses of them growing! They are freaking remarkable! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I eliminate the remainder of the roofing components!.

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