A polyester material is used because it will extend with the finishes. (Fiberglas material is not suggested.) Fabric is usually cut to extend three inches beyond the fixed location in all instructions. The coating is used to the roof surface area and the fabric is immediately pressed into the wet surface area.

Expancel For Elastomeric Cool Roof Coatings

If your roof has stucco parapets, examine them for fractures along the sides and top. These areas typically permit water to get in the wall and can trigger blisters and wrinkles in the roof surface area. Repair with Elastek 103 Fracture & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, analyze the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roofing system membrane.

Uniflex Acrylic Elastomeric Coating Spec For Metal Roofs

Sta-kool Elastomeric White Reflective Roof

Apply coating when the roof is dry and the sealant has actually set. You will be using a 9-inch heavy-duty frame, -inch paint roller for spreading finish on roofing or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Use a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Map out your roofing system and make each pail fill that location.

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An affordable 3-inch or 4-inch brush should be used to reach locations not possible with a roller. Use a stiff paintbrush for using 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. Topcoat needs to constantly be used in a really thick coat, to attain a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finishing thickness of 10 mils.

Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the item for a maximum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or soak roof and spread. Offer scupper and ponding locations numerous additional coats for added defense. Enable each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather condition, one coat a day is the maximum; 2 may be possible in the summertime.

ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry coating. If two total overcoats are not used, always apply two thick coats to problem areas such as scuppers, drain locations, ponding locations, joints, and repaired locations. Prevent using Elastek Solar Magic or The Shield on ponding roofs. Clean skin and tools quickly with water.

These are the wires connecting the roofing venting fan. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roofing system vent gotten rid of and tidied up. After clipping the wire and getting rid of the vent, I cleaned up any remaining goop and got my very first good take a look at the roofing frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.

Some RV roofings are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no idea what was in my camper until this point. Not too pleased about the quantity of rust on it, but hopefully it is still structurally sound! I scraped off some rust and made a huge mess inside the restroom.

Oops. Possibly I need to have put a tarpaulin down initially. My last goal of the day was to get the refrigerator vent cover off. I noticed RV sealant blobs at four points on the cover so assumed there must be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Peeling old RV roofing system finishing on top of fridge vent cap I also discovered that there was a coat of RV roofing finishing over the vent cap. These finishes are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this coating just blobbed in on top of whatever.

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Raising off the cover of the fridge roof vent. As soon as the cap is off it's more of the very same. Cutting away more rubber and scraping off Recreational Vehicle roofing sealant and old caulk. Get comfy since this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.

Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to get rid of. Prying off the fridge roofing system vent after all screws are eliminated. (and the tools used.) Almost every screw was in excellent adequate condition to eliminate with a socket driver, but a couple were too rusty and required to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.

I peeled the staying rubber roof from under the flange and after that scraped off the old putty below. I'll clean it much better if and when I choose to reuse it. Appears like it remains in decent shape so I most likely will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the refrigerator roofing vent.

Roof Coating Contractor For Elastomeric Roof

I scraped the framing inside the opening and discovered that the framing around the refrigerator vent is made from wood (unlike the metal frame around the roof vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I would not drop any scrap into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the refrigerator vent.

Tips For A Better Roof

That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I likewise discovered this awesome slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you have actually never seen a slime mold, take a look at some time lapses of them growing! They are freaking fantastic! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I eliminate the remainder of the roofing components!.

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